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I want to use a riding lawn mower engine and trans to power my new go-kart. The go kart will be used mainly to pull boat trailers, so I need some torque out of this engine, but I would also like to have a cruising gear. Any suggestions?

errrrrrrrr i dont no depends wot cc engine u hav init al ready lol tel me and i can tel u ;)

2008-09-13 12:18:11 by Dazed but not Confused

I couldn#39;t remember what was wrong with this Craftsman LTV/10 lawn tractor, so I figured I would see if I could get it to start, but quickly ...

I have a 1987 model Snapper rear engine rider and I have a replacement engine ordered for it. I have been told that there is a keyway at the end of the shaft coming out of the [vertical] engine. If I remove the mounting bolts, will the engine slip off of the top of the pulleys, or how much work will be involved? I am somewhat of an auto tech, but when it comes to small engine replacement, I'm starting from scratch. It's an 11 hp vertical Briggs engine. Any advice is appreciated!! Thanks in advance!!

Swapping engines on a scale of 1-10 is probably around a 5 - not hard, but theres some stuff involved. The rear engined tractor is a bit tougher, with all the mechanicals located at the back, but it can be done with normal tools.
First off id reccomend taking photos/drawings of linkages/belt paths/ect before taking anything off, to help with reassembly.
The wires from the starter motor, and charging system need to be unhooked, the fuel lines ( gas should be drained out) and throttle/choke cables need to be unhooked, since the old motor is no good, id drain the oil out of it ( ive tipped one over- its a mess!) to be on the safe side. Pretty much the only thing left is removing the motor mount bolts, it might be easier to either jack it up and block it or since its a Snapper - it could be stood on end and easily unbolted. The motor and drive plate/pulley should come out thru the chassis.
Once the motor is off the tractor, you'll have to remove the pulley/plate to put on new motor, theres a small allenhead screw holding it on the motor- loosen that , it might be a bit tough to pull off, but it will.
When putting on the new motor, use a light coating of never seize on the engine crank end, so if it needs removing later- itll come off easier. Remount the motor back on the chassis, and reattach all the linkages/hoses. Id suggest a good high quality SAE 30 motor oil and using a new fuel filter on the fuel line. The only thing that might be a problem is the charging system wire - you might have to splice it, depending on the wires from the motor and chassis. After the first mowing- to be sure , just recheck all the engine mount bolts- check it over.

2007-08-27 22:47:44 by DP

Price: $299.95 $255.99

12-inch rear wheels increase maneuverability over a variety of terrain
3-in-1 cutting system--mulch, rear bag, and side discharge
7021P is compliant for the state of California

Like what has to be removed to get the belt off the engine shaft pulley?

Which belt needs replacing? The blade belt is quite a bit easier than the drive belt. It is pretty hard to describe. It will probably be easier to go on line and pull the manuals. You should be able to pull up some blow-ups to get a better idea of what it entails. Sorry.

2009-06-09 17:15:44 by Jimmy S

Price: $1,199.00 $1,178.45

Better visibility for maneuvering in tight spaces
Non-CARB Compliant/Not For Sale In California
Requires less storage space

i want to know how to replace a push-rod on a riding mower engine that's a v twin and where can i get a replacement and know which one i need. and how much (approx) will a push rod cost for v twin engine

Here is the easiest way to show you. Get the make and model number off the engine and go to outdoor distributors. com. Locate the engine model and it will show you an exploded view of the engine plus parts and part numbers. This will give you a good idea of how you have to go about replacing the push rod. With the part number you can also look up the part and the cost on the same site. It won't provide torque specs or valve adjustment numbers. That will have to come from the engine manufacture.

2009-08-19 20:20:06 by Mopar

I am the proud inheritor of a Yard-Man "Easy Rider" rear-engine riding lawn mower powered by a 12.57 cu. in. 5HP Briggs and Stratton vertical crankshaft engine. The following are the identification codes off the engine tag:

MODEL: 130902
TYPE: 0355 02
CODE: 76102507

I cannot seem to find a replacement engine out there, as the machine was probably built around 1980 or so (I'm guessing). I'd have to imagine that there's a more up-to-date engine that I can drop into this beast.

Is it workable to replace such an old engine with something with a few more "horses?" I'm really having trouble getting any info on "OEM"-type replacements.

Thanks!

Jayson

As stated, the shaft size is the most important thing. The mounting pattern will be the same on a similar sized engine. The engine you have was made in 1976, they haven't changed much over the years. I would think that you could go up towards 10 hp before the shaft size changes.

2008-05-11 17:02:08 by Chainsaw On Idle